Hemming Jeans

Hemming Jeans - Fast & Easy!

Let’s face it, everyone wears jeans (who doesn’t love Denim Fabric?). Young, old and especially anyone in between wear them for just about any occasion. Jeans are typically manufactured in very long lengths so shortening them is a common necessity. Surprisingly, jeans are one of the easiest of pants to hem. Why anyone would pay $20-$30 to have this fast and easy task done for them is mind boggling. It really is that simple. No hand stitching is involved and within an hour the task is complete.

Step 1

The first step is to determine the desired length. If making that determination on yourself there a few ways that can be done. The easiest way is to take a pair of jeans you already know are the correct length and measure the inseam of both legs. Using that measurement, mark each inseam of the pants to be shortened with either a pin, fabric pen or chalk. Measure the distance from the new mark to the current hem. Using that measurement turn up the hem of each leg and pin in place.

Try on the jeans to make sure the hem length is where you want it. Look to be sure the hem on both legs are the same length and that the hem is parallel to the ground all the way around both legs. Make adjustments where necessary – this is a trial and error sort of task. Some people prefer to have the back portion of the jeans a bit longer to accommodate a high heel. If that is the case, make the appropriate adjustment. Once the final length is determined and securely pinned in place, steam press the hem to get a strong and clearly visible crease.

hemmingStep 2

The next step is mark the hem allowance and trim away the excess fabric. Using the pressed hemline as your guide, mark a cutting line 1 1/8 inches above the hemline using a chalk pen, fabric pen or tailors chalk. Since the line will never show, even a regular pen will do.

Step 3

Using the marked cutting line, trim away the excess.

Step 4

Now using the pressed hem crease as your guide fold up the raw edge to the crease line. Fold up once more to complete the hem and pin in place.

Step 5

Next, stitch the hem close to the folded edge. Denim is a very heavy and thick fabric so be sure to use a size 14/90 to 18/120 size needle. Also, use a thread designed for denim and try to select a color to match the old hem.

Start the stitching close to the inseam seamline where is less likely to show. Since a double turned hem creates a rather thick layer at the side and inseam seamlines, use a clearance plate to level off the presser foot. This will facilitate the foot’s ability to sew over the thick hump of fabric and keep the stitches uniform. And, that’s all there is to it.

This article uses the content from the original article on BurdaStyle.com

February 28, 2014 — Shopify API
Seersucker Fabric

Seersucker Fabric

When I think seersucker fabric, I envision wearing summer shorts on a yacht with boat shoes and a polo tee. Ahh. It’s a preppy warm weather fabric perfect for a sundress or breezy button-up—no Ralph Lauren ad scenery required.

If you’re already working on your spring wardrobe and aren’t quite sure how to utilize that lovely pebbled seersucker fabric you bought, here are some classic, and not-so-classic ideas to give a whirl.

1. Try a pair of cigarette pants. The silhouette of this pegged pair is reminiscent of the ‘60s and would make for a smart modern piece at any event.
2. Or, go for those yacht-worthy shorts like I mentioned. There’s really no classier way to bare your legs come rising temperatures.
3. Give a vintage nod in a gathered blouse. Play with notions like ribbons and lace to lean that seersucker in a sweet ‘70s direction.
4. Really beach it up with swimwear. J.Crew goes as far as to make their swimsuits out of the textured textile. Dive in!
5. Get really girly in a fit-and-flare dress. Can’t you just picture it looking just right on a picnic blanket?
6. Mix up your office wear with a cheerful blazer. The nautical twist transitions from work to cocktails to the sand seamlessly. Pair it with a sheath for fancier occasions and blue jeans for casual ones.
7. Forget the outdoors and don’t wait for the cold weather to dissipate—make a set of cozy pajamas for you or a loved one. Although, be warned, it will just make it that much harder to leave home these next couple months.

February 21, 2014 — Shopify API
fashionWeek2014

Top Trends at New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week has arrived yet again, and with it comes some serious sewing inspiration. From new silhouettes to fun textures, I’ve rounded up the top seven runway trends to keep in mind when picking out fabric for your next creation.

1. Rounded Shoulders. In the world of posture, this is something to be avoided, but the term has taken on a whole new meaning with the new shapes of coats these past few seasons. Get creative with a Kimono vibe or try something ultra-minimal.
2. Robe Coats. This look is as comfortable as it is chic—in other words, it’s a win-win. Pick out a plush wool to pull off this look. And the best part? No closure necessary with a tie belt.
3. Touchable Textures. Designers this season lined the runways with layered looks in a variety of weights and surfaces. To give extra depth to a design, try a rich boucle or nubby tweed.
4. Bright two-tones. Whether it’s a silky dress or a warm topper, don’t forget to have fun with linings. Bright contrasting colors were a big hit this season.
5. Velvet. If you have a fancy fete at your fingertips, I’d recommend you take a cruise through the velvet department because the glamorous textile has slinked down the catwalk several times.
6. Trousers. Power pants are back! Make some bold boxy capris or narrow cigarette pants. Don’t be afraid to try some high-waists and standout pleats for a twist on office wear.
7. Printastic. While many labels veered in the direction of luxe neutrals, the rest fearlessly dove into print fabric. The rule? The bolder the better with graphic maxi-dresses and matchy-matchy pantsuits.

February 14, 2014 — Shopify API
Bridal Fabric

Here Comes the Bridal Fabric

With all those Christmas proposals finally sinking in, it’s time to really start planning that spring, summer or fall wedding! And, of course, it’s never too early to take care of the most important part of the occasion: the dress.
Whether you’re making a custom gown for yourself or a loved one, it’s time to pore over the best bridal fabrics and some seriously lovely inspiration. I rounded up what are sure to be the three biggest trends of the season for your consideration.

Trend #1: Fishtail Finishes

The high-low hem is an elegant way to show off that footwear—or lack thereof, if the big day happens to be barefoot on a sandy beach. The trick? Your finishing touches have to be as lovely on the inside as they do on the outside. Take a look back at this French seam tutorial for an easy refresher course!

Trend #2: Off-the-Shoulder

Shoulder exposure is huge for wedding and cocktail attire this year. It’s delicate and dreamy and would work just as well in satin as it does in chiffon. Get creative and make the design organic with one strap falling deeper than the other.

Trend #3: Floating Fabric

Structured ruffles are artistic yet classically feminine elements to add to any dress. I particularly adored this ruched Reem Acra number. The airy layers look complex but are easy to recreate with light sheer fabric and a stiff ribbon binding trim. The results are heavenly!

So how will you use bridal fabric this wedding season?

February 07, 2014 — Shopify API
Wool Fabric

Coats With Statement Wool Fabric

As the polar vortex tightens its grip, we need to reach for coats that will keep us toasty and, well, brighten our mood. The best way to do this? Make our own standout toppers in wool fabric we love.
Right now, the most luxurious designers are all about bright saturated colors—but we can create our own unique designs for a fraction of the price. Take cues from this Nina Ricci gemstone green coat with a dainty Peter Pan collar juxtaposed against sporty gathered cuffs. If you can’t decide on a single bold hue, try Fausto Puglisi’s two new takes on color-blocking here and here. Pretty playful, right?
If you’re not feeling the intense purples, oranges and reds, try having a little fun with texture instead. Wool boucle is not only visually appeasing, it’s ultra-cozy for these brisk days and nights. Even better? It’s all the rage right now. This grey Kaliko creation is a girly retro dream while this black Isabel Marant piece is sharp and sophisticated but oh-so-cuddly. Which statement coat idea suits your style personality best?

February 02, 2014 — Shopify API
Chenille Fabric

Chenille Fabric for Home & Wardrobe

For Christmas in 7th grade, my mother bought me a black chenille fabric sweater. It might sound bland, but it seemed magical with its soft warmth and beautiful texture. I wore it to death—till the color faded and the sleeve edges were frayed. It was very loved, and to this day when I hear the words chenille fabric I can almost feel that distinct texture.

Now, knowing the intricate weave of the supple fabric, my appreciation has only grown stronger. The greatest part about chenille fabric? It’s just as beautiful in the home as it is hanging in your closet. If you’re looking to make a plush pillow or a luxe top, it’s the perfect textile for winter. I was particularly inspired by this crimson Alexander McQueen dress—see? It’s not just for blankets and 7th grade sweaters. In fact, it can be incredibly high-fashion. But you can also go as simple as a pillow to dress up your living room (add some contrasting fringe for extra depth!), or a lovely long-sleeve tunic to wear with leggings. At any rate, it’s nice to know this lustrous fabric comes by the yard, for those of us who aren’t expert knitters.

January 24, 2014 — Shopify API
Tencel Fabrics

Go Eco-Friendly With Tencel Fabric

Unfortunately, the fashion industry can often be a wasteful place, so it’s refreshing to find advancements in technology that are making clothing more earth-friendly. One of my favorite results of this movement is Tencel fabric.

Have you tried it? It’s an incredibly versatile textile that is made from wood pulp sourced from sustainable tree farms. It can range vastly in weight and drape, but is always luxuriously touchable. Typically it feels similar to rayon but is touted to be biodegradable. Lately, it’s been turning up in everything from denim mixtures to basic tanks and tees. Sidenote: Nothing makes skinny jeans more happily wearable.

Tencel fabric doesn’t wrinkle as much as rayon (thank goodness!) and it washes easy and breathes even easier (phew!). I like the idea of using solids for airy work-friendly button-ups or a subtle print for a weekend blouse. Tell me, how would you or have you used Tencel? Are you as big a fan as I am? Dish.

January 17, 2014 — Shopify API
Black Fabric

Un-Boring Black Fabric

For some people, black fabric can read as boring. An LBD is undeniably classic, yes, but is it memorable? It all depends. To me, black is luxurious. It never goes out of style and screams high-fashion—when implemented correctly.

The trick to ensure an impactful use of your dark textiles? Toy with texture. Either start with rich touchable fabric, or start basic and create your own depth. Here are a five ways to make that happen:

1. Pleats. These gems have multiple personalities. They can give a retro feel in a voluminous ‘50s silhouette or they can be dreamy and delicate. Even better, why not try texture on top of texture like this Calvin Klein mini I’m swooning over?

2. Ruffles. Any girly-girl is far too familiar with the joys of ruffles, but they can actually be quite sophisticated. Take this top, for example, it’s polished while still being fun and interesting.

3. Pintucks. This is a pleat’s sophisticated sister. Try them out on a blouse or button-down to add some interest to office wear.

4. Appliques. How crazy elegant is this appliqued satin maxi-skirt from Temperley London? I can’t think of a more versatile evening design, particularly when paired with a white button-down a la Carolina Herrera. The applique petals make it romantic without looking silly.

5. Quilting. Something like these quilted leather jeans may be a bit of a sartorial feat to create, but adding quilted lines to a skirt or an accessory would give some serious dimension.

So how will you use your black fabric?

January 09, 2014 — Shopify API
Knit Fabric Featured Image

Layer Up in Winter Knit Fabric

There’s no better time to load up on knit fabric than in winter. Sure, knits make darling dresses for spring, but they’re also warm, cozy and perfect for layering. Now I’m not suggesting the time-consuming task of hand-knitting your wardrobe this season (though there’s nothing more timeless than a chunky cable-knit sweater). I’m talking about cut and sew knit fabric in rich textures or delicate solids. I’ve gathered some cool project inspiration from the latest trends on the market—each with its own style personality.

The Luxe Knit: Nothing is simpler or chicer than a cowl-neck poncho like this. You’d only need two pattern pieces to replicate this beauty. Simply sew a beautifully draped collar into a rectangle for a handkerchief finish. The best part of stretch fabrics? No fraying so no hem necessary.

The Girly Knit: Here’s another easy one for you. When making a skirt, nothing works better than a thick knit. It ensures a nice “tailored” fit while maintaining a wearable comfort. I loved the simplicity of this high-waist flared number. Can’t you just picture it with opaque tights and your favorite heels? I’ll definitely be making something similar for myself—stay tuned.

The Tough Knit: It’s easy to forget that knit fabric can also be used as an accent on one of your designs. This leather jacket was given an edgy twist with comfy contrast sleeves. Clever, huh?

The Relaxed Knit: In the mood for lounging as much as I am this winter? No need to rely on sweats. Try making a simple faux-wrap maxi-dress like this Tinley Road one. It’s kind of like wearing a blanket but way more fashionable. And fortunately, it would look just as great with boots as it does with sandals.

December 30, 2013 — Shopify API
Metallic Fabric

Metallic Fabric Maven

New Year’s Eve and Everything in Between

New Year’s Eve is the time we get to shine as much as possible. Hello sequins and metallic fabric! In fact, with the holidays in full force, we have permission to do so all of December—day and night. So why not infuse some metallics into your wardrobe this season, be it for the ball drop, your next soiree, or just a day at the office. Here’s how:

1) If you’re throwing a party or three this season, I highly recommend you add some glitz to your apartment with some easy-to-make pillow covers. You can even avoid buttons and zippers with a simple fold-over pattern. I was particularly inspired by this embossed silver style from Missoni. This woven cover from West Elm, on the other hand, is also a polished interior look to try.
2) Not the girly-girl type? You can still join in on the fun with a design like these sophisticated trousers. Pair it with a slouchy cashmere sweater for your work’s holiday shindig—it’s foolproof.

3) Add it as an accent piece like sleeves on a T-shirt or cuffs on a jacket. Subtlety is always a win.

4) Try it on a classic silhouette. Is there anything cooler than a futuristic sheen on an ultra-pretty cut? A flawless choice for NYE, in my opinion.

5) Make it daytime fab in the form of a slouchy sweater with metallic thread. A look like this one will smartly transition from day to night. And hey, it looks pretty darn comfortable, too.

6) For those of us who plan to do our countdown from the safety (and warmth!) or our couches, might I suggest bringing the cheer indoors with some gold, silver, or gunmetal pajamas. A drawstring pattern is simple and would amp up your New Year’s Eve almost as much as that champagne.

So how are you going to spice up your new year? With metallic fabric we hope!

December 20, 2013 — Shopify API
Boucle Fabric

Sophisticated to Cool Boucle Fabric

I used to work in design at St. John Knits—a brand where women’s suits were king. Or, queen, rather. Boucle fabric weaves, in particular, were a favorite of businesswomen all over the world. Now, when I see the nubby fabric, I think of ladylike skirtsuits and blazers with pretty gold buttons and precisely frayed edges.

While the tactile textile makes me instantly envision the likes of Jackie O with white gloves and a string of pearls, the fabric is surprisingly versatile. It can be fancied up for the office or it can simply give your weekend wear a luxe feel. Make an upscale impression in a structured tweed jacket or herringbone topper; get cozy in a waterfall cardigan or zippered coat; and go super-feminine in a speckled pencil skirt or cocktail-worthy dress. Believe it or not, it can even create a sporty effect, particularly when you mix it with a contrasting fabric like leather or canvas.

Tips for sewing with boucle fabric? I’ve got three for you.

1) Steam, don’t press, the boucle if you want it to keeps its wonderful 3-D texture.
2) In the same vein, you’ll want to avoid iron-on interfacing and stick to the sew-on kind. Or, better yet, go without any at all to get a softer result.
3) An exposed zipper might be one step to help prevent snagging any loops while closing, but an even smarter step would be to bind your edges with an alternate fabric. Or, for a playful and particularly festive option, buy a matching frayed trim and go sans closures or simply sew on some elegantly hidden hook-and-eyes.

December 13, 2013 — Shopify API
Jaquard Fabric

Party-Worthy Jacquard Fabric

The holidays are in our midst, and with them come a slew of inevitable parties filled with delicious baked goods, smiling faces and loads of style. What more could anyone ask for? If you’re hoping to make the perfect festive piece for your next soiree, I have two words for you: jacquard fabric. The fabric has the sheen of sequins without the risk of tackiness, the formality of satin with much more spirit. Basically, it’s perfectly fancy while still being playful. It also happens to never go out of style.

Need some inspiration? I adore this ‘60s design from Topshop, the silhouette is nostalgic but minimal, allowing for the lustrous fabric to really shine. But don’t be afraid to get more intricate! This is the perfect material to toy with pleats, gathers and ruffles. This draped Marchesa dress proves just that.

On the other hand, vibrant crimson like Ann Taylor’s flounce dress hits just the right holiday note—just picture this with loads of glittery bling. Mhm! As a firm believer that floral is never out of season, don’t resist going girly in a brocade garden of box pleats like this A.B.S. gem. Remember: Red lipstick has the power to winter-ize any look.

Now it’s time for technique. Jacquard fabric is notoriously fray-happy. Again, this is a project where you’ll want to get out that Fray Check. Alternatively, you can also use those French seams we talked about to create a clean finish. You’ll want to cut right before you sew, before those unwoven threads get away from you! Bias facings or serged edges would also be smart solutions.

Otherwise, have fun with this fabric and the beautifully crisp silhouettes it can make.

December 06, 2013 — Shopify API